DIY plumbing and plumbing installation

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Installing a dish­wash­er is easy.

But even in this sim­ple algo­rithm there are a lot of nuances that need to be tak­en into account.

Where is it bet­ter to put the dish­wash­er, how to cal­cu­late the dis­tance, what tools are need­ed and how to do it?

How to install, con­nect and con­fig­ure a dish­wash­er with your own hands?

Cur­rent­ly, there are a large num­ber of dish­wash­ers on the mar­ket, which dif­fer in both qual­i­ty and price.

But even the high­est qual­i­ty equip­ment can fail if it is installed incor­rect­ly..

There­fore, it will not be super­flu­ous to know what steps to take before installing the dish­wash­er. So, how do you prop­er­ly install a dish­wash­er?

To begin with, it is nec­es­sary to deter­mine the place of its instal­la­tion, pro­vide access to con­nect­ed com­mu­ni­ca­tions and make the first con­fig­u­ra­tion before start­ing.

How to choose the right place for your dishwasher

To install a dish­wash­er, you need to know where this equip­ment will stand.

In the kitchen, you need to take into account var­i­ous fac­tors, includ­ing the loca­tion of com­mu­ni­ca­tions.

It is not pos­si­ble to build it into any part of the kitchen, the loca­tion in height, the prox­im­i­ty of com­mu­ni­ca­tions, as well as prox­im­i­ty to oth­er large kitchen appli­ances are impor­tant. The eas­i­est option would be a place in the cab­i­net or under the coun­ter­top.

We list the main points that must be tak­en into account:

  1. Prox­im­i­ty of com­mu­ni­ca­tions: next to the place there should be a 220 V sock­et, a water sup­ply, as well as a drain. The PMM drain hose should not be longer than 1.5 m, oth­er­wise the load on the pumps will be increased, which may cause its fail­ure.
  2. It is not rec­om­mend­ed to place PMM near heat sources. This will neg­a­tive­ly affect the oper­a­tion and dura­bil­i­ty of the machine itself. For exam­ple, it’s def­i­nite­ly a bad idea to be next to an old-style elec­tric stove — it gets very hot. But with most mod­ern stoves, such prob­lems will not arise — they have min­i­mal heat­ing of the out­er sur­face of the case, so you need to look at the sit­u­a­tion.
  3. Neigh­bor­hood with a wash­ing machine is pos­si­ble only in cer­tain nich­es. You can’t put them close: the vibra­tion from the wash­ing machine can break frag­ile dish­es (for exam­ple, crys­tal, glass objects) and gen­er­al­ly harm the PMM.
  4. You should not plan place­ment from the very edge of the kitchen set. Full-height PMM mod­els (for exam­ple, Bosch 60 cm) are built just under the coun­ter­top, so then their side sur­face will have to be cov­ered with some­thing addi­tion­al, and this will entail extra costs.
  5. Accord­ing­ly, the ide­al place for a built-in or free­stand­ing (includ­ing desk­top) dish­wash­er is to the left or right of the kitchen sink, where all com­mu­ni­ca­tions will be avail­able at once.

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Connection to PMM communications

A dish­wash­er from the brands Bosch (Bosch), Elec­trolux (Elec­trolux), Beko (Beko), Hot­point Aris­ton (Hot­point Aris­ton), Midea (Medea), Siemens (Siemens), Hansa (Hansa) is a great helper in the house. But buy­ing this equip­ment is only half the bat­tle.

Next, you will need to con­nect the dish­wash­er to the water sup­ply and sew­er­age, as well as to the mains. The cost of such work, espe­cial­ly in Moscow, is quite high. There­fore, if you have the skills, it makes sense to do them your­self.

Before installing the dish­wash­er in place, it is bet­ter to check once again the avail­abil­i­ty of com­mu­ni­ca­tions and the cor­rect length of hoses and pow­er cord.

Con­nect­ing a dish­wash­er is a busi­ness that requires skills in plumb­ing work. And the more expe­ri­ence you have in this kind of work, the bet­ter. You must under­stand that the dura­bil­i­ty and trou­ble-free oper­a­tion of your dish­wash­er depends on the qual­i­ty of instal­la­tion.

Before start­ing work, be sure to check that you have all the nec­es­sary tools and fix­tures.

In order to prop­er­ly con­nect the dish­wash­er, in addi­tion to a screw­driv­er and pli­ers, you may need a drill, a lev­el, and also:

  • Epoxy adhe­sive
  • clamps;
  • siphon with an addi­tion­al branch;
  • tee tap brass or bronze, but not silu­min;
  • wrench;
  • wire cut­ters;
  • earth­ed sock­et.
  • Adjustable wrench — need­ed to install a tee on a water sup­ply for con­nec­tion. PMM if it’s not already
  • Phillips screw­driv­er — for hang­ing the facade, if nec­es­sary.

As for con­sum­ables, fum-tape and plumb­ing tape for fix­ing the drain hose may be use­ful.

The main thing is to check if you have a flex­i­ble water sup­ply hose to the PMM and how much is avail­able. It must be of suf­fi­cient length for the select­ed instal­la­tion site, it is bet­ter to check this care­ful­ly in advance.

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Such a hose can also be equipped with an aquastop pro­tec­tive mech­a­nism that pre­vents the risk of leak­age when rup­tured — such hoses are usu­al­ly equipped with more expen­sive PMM mod­els.

Also, if you have nowhere to con­nect the water intake hose, you will need to buy a tee and install it on the water sup­ply to the kitchen faucet, or dilute it from the man­i­fold in the ris­er.

The with­draw­al from the ris­er is car­ried out as fol­lows:

  1. Con­nect the adapter for polypropy­lene pipes to the free out­let of the col­lec­tor;
  2. Lay a route to the instal­la­tion site of the dish­wash­er, if nec­es­sary; using con­nect­ing fit­tings and elbows;
  3. Final­ly, mount the water out­let and screw a met­al elbow with a ¾ inch male thread into it;
  4. It remains to con­nect the sup­ply hose from the machine kit.

If it is impos­si­ble to bring a sep­a­rate pipe to the instal­la­tion site of the dish­wash­er, then there is an option to con­nect a kitchen sink mix­er into the gap.

To do this, you need a tee with a faucet:

  1. It is nec­es­sary to first turn off the water sup­ply in the ris­er and release the remain­ing excess pres­sure by open­ing the tap in the sink.
  2. Now you can install the tee under the sink.

Do not for­get to seal all thread­ed con­nec­tions with FUM tape.

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Important to remember during installation

Impor­tant — dur­ing the instal­la­tion of the PMM, you need to study the instruc­tions that are attached to a spe­cif­ic mod­el. It indi­cates the lay­out and con­nec­tion of all nec­es­sary ele­ments. The instal­la­tion of the dish­wash­er must be car­ried out in accor­dance with the norms of SNiP.

Each man­u­fac­tur­er gives its own instal­la­tion rec­om­men­da­tions, and if they are gross­ly vio­lat­ed, you may be denied ser­vice under war­ran­ty in the future.

As a rule, the instruc­tions also indi­cate all the nec­es­sary dimen­sions for embed­ding, and there may also be spe­cial rec­om­men­da­tions for some mod­els.

A few use­ful lit­tle things to con­sid­er when con­nect­ing a dish­wash­er:

  1. If you have a ground loop installed, then do not for­get to con­nect it.
  2. Be sure to check for leaks in the sys­tem. If water flows from the machine, then it needs to be turned off and sort­ed out.
  3. The drain hose must not hang down a slope. This may cause water to drip onto the floor.
  4. There should be no pro­tru­sions on the bot­tom of the dish­wash­er. It must be care­ful­ly attached with bolts and nuts.
  5. The drain pipe must be attached to the sew­er pipe.
  6. To avoid leaks, you need to install a drain fil­ter.
  7. You need to make sure that the dish­wash­er is con­nect­ed to water and elec­tric­i­ty, as well as that there is free access to the out­let.
  8. If your dish­wash­er does not have an out­let, then you need to buy an exten­sion cord that can with­stand the load.
  9. Don’t for­get to con­nect a drain if your dish­wash­er has one.

The dish­wash­er is a fair­ly new inven­tion, but it has already become an inte­gral part of our lives. It makes it eas­i­er, more con­ve­nient and faster. There­fore, it is worth a lit­tle work to get a good result.

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How to properly install PMM

To install the dish­wash­er, you need to care­ful­ly con­sid­er the place in which it will be installed, and prop­er­ly fix it to the floor and hang­ers.

It is nec­es­sary to do this in such a way that water does not get on elec­tri­cal equip­ment, elec­tri­cal wiring, fur­ni­ture, etc. dur­ing its oper­a­tion. If you choose the right place for the dish­wash­er, you can avoid many prob­lems, as well as sig­nif­i­cant­ly save elec­tric­i­ty and water.

You can not embed it in any part of the kitchen. In order to prop­er­ly install the pmm, you must observe the nec­es­sary gaps and dis­tances. The dis­tance between the sink and the equip­ment fol­low­ing it must be at least 5 cm.

Before buy­ing built-in appli­ances, mea­sure the dimen­sions of the kitchen cab­i­net. Dish­wash­er legs can be adjust­ed in height. Use a lev­el to lev­el the machine. Some mod­els are very sen­si­tive to tilt even as low as 2 degrees. This may affect their future work.

Mount the machine near a sink. This will make it eas­i­er to con­nect the drain and water with­out hav­ing to extend the hoses. Experts say that length­en­ing the hoses can lead to leak­age, as well as cre­ate a large load on the drain pump.

When build­ing into fur­ni­ture, install a met­al plate under the coun­ter­top to pro­tect the wood from steam. In many built-in mod­els, the plate is includ­ed.

To find the most con­ve­nient and tech­ni­cal­ly safe loca­tion, before plac­ing the dish­wash­er, read the fol­low­ing tips:

  • PMM should not be clos­er than 40 cm from the stove, oven and hobs.
  • The microwave oven must be placed at least 50 cm away from the oven.
  • Wash­ing machine and dish­wash­er must not be in con­tact with each oth­er walls.

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These rules are relat­ed to the pecu­liar­i­ties of the work of dif­fer­ent types of equip­ment. For exam­ple, a wash­ing machine dur­ing the spin cycle pro­duces too much vibra­tion. This can dam­age the dish­wash­er. If two appli­ances are turned on at the same time, there is a high prob­a­bil­i­ty of sim­ply break­ing all the dish­es inside.

PMM should not get very hot. For this rea­son, it is worth keep­ing a dis­tance from stoves, ovens and any heat­ing appli­ances. Under the influ­ence of high tem­per­a­ture, the seals inside the equip­ment quick­ly dry out and become unus­able.

There may be oth­er break­downs that will not be fixed under the war­ran­ty card due to vio­la­tion of oper­at­ing con­di­tions. Microwave waves from a microwave oven can also neg­a­tive­ly affect the oper­a­tion of the PMM.

To con­nect the equip­ment to the net­work, a sep­a­rate mois­ture-resis­tant sock­et is used. Do not con­nect with exten­sion cords or tees.

When plac­ing equip­ment, we rec­om­mend that you take into account the stan­dard length of the cord. It is 1.5 m. There­fore, install the PMM no fur­ther than 50 cm from the sock­et with mois­ture pro­tec­tion.

How to connect a dishwasher to the water supply

This part is the most labo­ri­ous in exe­cu­tion, it takes much more time than con­nect­ing oth­er com­mu­ni­ca­tions. Turn off the water before con­nect­ing the dish­wash­er.

Then you need to fol­low the fol­low­ing algo­rithm:

  • Find the place where the sink faucet flex­i­ble hose con­nects to the plas­tic pipe.
  • Open these two parts.
  • Take a pre-pur­chased plumb­ing tee. Wrap FUM tape on the thread.
  • Con­nect the tee to the met­al-plas­tic pipe.
  • In the upper part, fix the flex­i­ble hose of the mix­er, after wrap­ping the FUM thread with tape.
  • Con­nect a fine fil­ter to the remain­ing out­let. Attach a stop­cock to it.
  • Con­nect the result­ing struc­ture to the dish­wash­er with a flex­i­ble hose.
  • Turn on the water sup­ply.

PMM require con­nec­tion only of cold water sup­ply sys­tems.

First­ly: the tech­nique itself has many dif­fer­ent pro­grams with its own tem­per­a­ture regime, under which it heats water.

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How to connect to electricity

PMM are high-pow­er embed­ded tech­nol­o­gy. This means that before installing the dish­wash­er your­self, make sure that the wiring in the apart­ment can with­stand the upcom­ing loads.

Much atten­tion in this mat­ter is paid to the cross sec­tion of cop­per con­duc­tors. It must be at least 2 mm. To under­stand the exact val­ue, use the spe­cial cross-sec­tion for­mu­las or con­sult an expe­ri­enced elec­tri­cian.

The dish­wash­er is con­nect­ed to a near­by out­let with a volt­age of at least 16 A. Remem­ber to install a ground­ing con­tact. It is pro­vid­ed by elec­tri­cians in sock­ets.

Impor­tant con­di­tion: it is not allowed to con­nect a dish­wash­er and a wash­ing machine to the same pow­er source. This will lead to high over­loads, which may cause a short cir­cuit.

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How to connect to a drain

It is nec­es­sary to install a new siphon with a sep­a­rate pipe under the kitchen sink. A drain line is con­nect­ed to it.

This takes into account two impor­tant require­ments:

  • The drain cir­cuit must cut into the siphon at an angle. In this case, most of the water will go by grav­i­ty.
  • At the con­nec­tion point of the cir­cuit, you must addi­tion­al­ly cre­ate a small inflec­tion to pre­vent water from being drawn from the sink.

With a far loca­tion of the PMM from the water source, you will have to install anoth­er tee. A hose will run from it to the siphon under the sink.

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How to install the front on the built-in dishwasher door

There are two ways to fix the facade:

  • Par­tial fas­ten­ing. In this case, the pan­el clos­es the main part of the door, while the con­trol pan­el remains vis­i­ble.
  • Full instal­la­tion. The dish­wash­er door is ful­ly closed with a pan­el.

The fin­ished front pan­el is mount­ed only on self-tap­ping screws. The use of glue, even very resis­tant, is unde­sir­able. He, most like­ly, due to con­stant tem­per­a­ture fluc­tu­a­tions, will become unus­able and lose his prop­er­ties.

When using self-tap­ping screws, make sure that they firm­ly enter the mate­r­i­al, but do not crawl out of it either from the front or from the back. Oth­er­wise, there is a high risk of injury and dam­age to equip­ment.

The facade is fixed, start­ing with the han­dle. To car­ry out these works, dish­wash­er man­u­fac­tur­ers make spe­cial holes on the door, and also offer tem­plates for fix­ing parts.

Upon com­ple­tion of instal­la­tion, check how even­ly the facade is installed, if there are any gaps. If the appear­ance suits you, you can pro­ceed to the direct oper­a­tion of the PMM.

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Preparing for work after installation

So, all com­mu­ni­ca­tions to the PMM are con­nect­ed, and the device is built into the kitchen set. But do not rush to load the dish­es into the trays — you need to set up the device before the first start.

The set­up con­sists of the fol­low­ing steps:

  1. Set the salt con­sump­tion lev­el accord­ing to the water hard­ness. The hard­er the water, the high­er the lev­el you need to set. You can deter­mine the hard­ness para­me­ter with a spe­cial test (visu­al­ly hard water can be deter­mined by white stains on the sink).
  2. Pour the salt into the con­tain­er. It is locat­ed at the bot­tom of the machine and is closed with a sep­a­rate cov­er. Before the first wash, you need to fill this com­part­ment with water to the top and do not for­get to screw the lid on.
  3. Pour the rinse aid into the tank and add the deter­gent. The rinse aid con­sump­tion is adjustable — for the first wash­es it is bet­ter to leave it medi­um, then adjust it — increase it if the dish­es do not shine or dry slow­ly.

When you first turn on the PMM, the indi­ca­tors will most like­ly be on, indi­cat­ing the need to fill the com­part­ment with salt and rinse aid.

After fill­ing, the indi­ca­tors should go out, and then you can already start load­ing dish­es and wash­ing. After the first cycle, the hose and drain con­nec­tions must be care­ful­ly checked in order to imme­di­ate­ly detect and elim­i­nate pos­si­ble leaks.

Useful video

How the dish­wash­er is installed and con­nect­ed is shown in the video instruc­tion:

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