Do-it-yourself thermopot repair: instructions and an overview of popular faults


Ther­mopot is an inven­tion of mod­ern civ­i­liza­tion. This is a sym­bio­sis of an elec­tric ket­tle and a ther­mos, work­ing on the prin­ci­ple of a samovar. Like a ket­tle, a ther­mo pot boils water, and like a ther­mos, it keeps it hot for a long time. But even this inven­tion some­times has to be repaired. To start repair­ing a ther­mopot with your own hands, you need to study its inter­nal struc­ture and prin­ci­ple of oper­a­tion, there­fore, a tech­ni­cal instruc­tion is attached to the ther­mopot.

How is a thermopot

All such devices are arranged in the same way, and may dif­fer in aux­il­iary options. The work­ing units of the ther­mopot are placed in the case, and it must be removed to repair the device. Water is poured into a stain­less steel tank with two heat­ing ele­ments at the bot­tom. One heat­ing ele­ment heats water up to 100aboutC, the sec­ond keeps it hot. All elec­tri­cal parts are equipped with appro­pri­ate elec­tri­cal pro­tec­tion.


An engine is attached to the side of the case, which sup­plies water from the tank. Also, the device is equipped with elec­tron­ics, which acts as a time relay for re-boil­ing water and low­er­ing the mains volt­age for the pump and time relay.

Also, an auto­mat­ic con­trol board is built into the ther­mopot for reheat­ing, indi­cat­ing the sta­tus of the device and water sup­ply. The ther­mal switch, which is dupli­cat­ed by a ther­mal fuse, is mount­ed on the side wall of the tank and on the bot­tom of the hous­ing. Such pro­tec­tion does not allow the ther­mopot to over­heat or burn out.

New thermopot

If you know how the ther­mopot works and where every­thing is locat­ed, it will be eas­i­er for you to iden­ti­fy the prob­lem and do the repair of the ther­mopot your­self. It does not hurt to get acquaint­ed with the elec­tri­cal cir­cuit of the device — then you can also repair some nodes your­self. For exam­ple, a pow­er sup­ply cir­cuit for a Vitek ther­mopot can be pur­chased for about 1000–1200 rubles, and it con­sists of the fol­low­ing parts and assem­blies:

  1. Pulse trans­former.
  2. Diode bridge.
  3. Elec­tri­cal cir­cuit ele­ments: capac­i­tors, resis­tances, diodes, tran­sis­tors, etc.

So, the Pana­son­ic NC-EH30PWTW ther­mal pot costs about 5000–6000 rubles, and the replace­ment of elec­tron­ics dur­ing repairs is more than 2000 rubles. The pump also costs about 2000 rubles, so it is cheap­er and eas­i­er to buy a new device than to repair an old device. How­ev­er, if you still decide to repair the ther­mal pot your­self, then start with the pow­er cord.

Disassembly of the thermopot

Any devi­a­tion from the nor­mal oper­a­tion of the device can be called a break­down that requires repair.

To remove the upper case, locate and unscrew the screws on the bot­tom of the instru­ment. Next, make a visu­al inspec­tion of all nodes for dam­age — mechan­i­cal and ther­mal, which can most often be restored with a sol­der­ing iron.

The next step is to check the ther­mal switch in the bot­tom of the hous­ing using a con­ven­tion­al house­hold tester. A good switch does not have infi­nite resis­tance. Sim­ply replace a non-work­ing unit with a new one, and the eas­i­est way to order it is via the Inter­net.

It is pos­si­ble to dis­con­nect the pump only after dis­con­nect­ing the inlet pipe and unscrew­ing the fix­ing bolts. Check it for block­ages — often it is enough to clean the impeller and mag­net to give the pump a sec­ond life.

See also: How to clean the ther­mopot from scale with your own hands.

Also, a stan­dard ther­mopot, for exam­ple, Polaris or Boch, has not one, but sev­er­al ther­mal switch­es, of which one is need­ed to con­trol the tem­per­a­ture of the water, and the sec­ond pro­tects the device from turn­ing on if it is emp­ty. The ther­mal switch is locat­ed so that the walls of the tank and the flange are in close con­tact. A spe­cial ther­mal­ly con­duc­tive grease is used for the con­tact.

Thermopot and coffee maker

How to fix minor damage

Do not try to work with an unsuit­able sol­der­ing iron by remov­ing and replac­ing the microchip in the same Ide­al ID-40TPS mod­el or any oth­er mod­el that requires the use of a hot air gun.

Thermopot Ideal

The most com­mon mal­func­tions can often be iden­ti­fied and cor­rect­ed on their own. Here is some of them:

  1. The indi­ca­tors do not light up, the device does not work and does not show signs of life. To begin with, you should check the wiring and elec­tri­cal con­nec­tions, the fuse and the ther­mo­stat — these parts and assem­blies fail more often than oth­ers.
  2. Only the reheat mode works — the main boil does not work. Most like­ly, the bot­tom ther­mal switch is faulty or the main heat­ing ele­ment burned out.
  3. The main boil mode works, reheat­ing does not. Check the ele­ments of the main board.
  4. The water sup­ply is not work­ing. A break­down can be caused by a mal­func­tion of the pump pow­er cir­cuit or a break­down of the pump itself. The spi­ral (heater) of addi­tion­al heat­ing often burns out, through which volt­age is applied to the pump motor. If the heat­ing ele­ments fail, it is eco­nom­i­cal­ly unprof­itable to repair the ther­mal pot — it is cheap­er to buy a new one, for exam­ple, scar­lett SL-1509.

Thermopot Scarlet

After the repair is com­plet­ed, check the elec­tri­cal safe­ty of the device — mea­sure the resis­tance with the same tester (it must be infi­nite) between the tank and the con­tacts of the elec­tri­cal plug, between the body and the con­tacts of the plug.

Repair of other thermopot elements

  1. If your ther­mopot has a burned out spi­ral (heater), then it will not be pos­si­ble to repair it — you will have to buy a new device. A new heat­ing ele­ment costs from 2000 rubles and more, so chang­ing it in an old ther­mopot is sim­ply unprof­itable.
  2. Elec­tri­cal cord. Inside the case there is a block that fix­es the cord. It is nec­es­sary to release the cable and check it for a short cir­cuit with a tester.
  3. Microchip. It hap­pens to be nour­ish­ing and man­ag­ing. A visu­al inspec­tion will help iden­ti­fy burnt parts that can be replaced with a low-pow­er sol­der­ing iron.
  4. Capac­i­tors. The defec­tive part looks swollen and is imme­di­ate­ly vis­i­ble.
  5. Diodes rarely fail, and their per­for­mance can only be checked with a dial tester.
  6. Geti­nax board tracks. Micro­c­racks can be tinned with a lay­er of tin sol­der.

Video instructions for repairing a thermopot

The video shows the inter­nal struc­ture of the ther­mo pot and one of the ways to repair it, name­ly, replac­ing the pump. Step-by-step video instruc­tion with detailed expla­na­tions dur­ing the video. This break­down is not the most com­mon, but it is one of the dif­fi­cult prob­lems that you can solve on your own. On the video — repair of the Pana­son­ic ther­mopot pump.





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